Creature-comfort slackpacking in the tranquil mistbelt forests and grasslands of the Dargle
Words: Carol Brammage. Pictures: Carol and Dave Brammage
Walking in ancient mistbelt forests, home to shy samango monkeys and other wild creatures, is both grounding and inspirational. It is grounding to soak in the rich and subtle scents and sounds of the forest, and inspirational as the forest trees impart a sense of serenity that contrasts with our often fragmented and busy lives.
Such less travelled forest paths can be trod in the KZN Midlands, thanks to Julia Invernizzi of Spekboom Tours, who with the generous cooperation of the local Conservancies and landowners in the area is pioneering slackpacking through the indigenous forests and grasslands that abut the farmlands in this part of the Midlands. For Julia slackpacking means “walking trails without the burden of a heavy backpack, hard mattress, and pot noodles for dinner”. Instead, slackpacking with Spekboom Tours offers families and those who like relaxed hiking and their creature comforts to enjoy walking in nature with their luggage transfere taken care of and a warm bed and a home-cooked meal to look forward to.
Julia envisages Spekboom Tours enabling people to experience the magic of the unique mistbelt KZN Midlands habitats, and at the same time, putting something back into its ongoing protection.
In mid-November, with a group of congenial people I experienced first-hand what Julia has in mind when we joined her to test out the new Dargle walking trail routes. The launch was also to raise funds for the Dargle Conservancy and for FreeMe KZN, a wildlife rehabilitation centre based in Howick. The trail began at Lemonwood Cottages under the eve of the Dargle forest. Private landowners have granted permission for Spekboom Tours to guide trails through areas that are usually inaccessible to the public.
Julia’s dream is to responsibly open up the area for everyone to experience. She quotes Barend Booysen from Crab Apple, an active custodian of the Dargle Conservancy, saying that through nature we learn our lessons; we understand human frailty, our connection with ourselves, our connection with others and the impacts of our choices. Like Barend, Julia believes that people who are able to experience nature come to understand that nature provides far more than a reserve of physical resources to be exploited.
Going forward, Julia wishes, an environmental facilitator by profession wishes to use Spekboom Tours to generate funds and help expand the work of conservancies, including protecting biodiversity and involving school groups and neighbouring communities so that they can also experience the natural treasures that exist in these areas. She observes that “nature is an unrecognised healer with the greatest outdoor lessons in life to teach us”.
So, we set off on the trail, climbing up through the cool forest along charming pathways edged with ferns , roots and moss. Every now and then Julia would stop to point out trees or plants of particular interest or we would pause to listen to the birdsong.
We wended our way through the gorgeous forest, replenishing our water bottles with natural spring water, emerging now and again into flower-studded grassland, before descending into the Lidgetton valley to stop for cold beers at Pleasant Places. On this informal weekend we enjoyed picnic-style the packed lunches we had brought with us, but future Spekboom Tours slackpacking trails will be fully catered.
In the afternoon, the trail followed the Lions River for a while before crossing the river and heading for Lythwood Lodge and welcome ice-cold drinks. The last leg of the trail was to Blesberg Farm, where many hikers stayed the night in farm cottages.
In the evening we congregated at the magnificent farmhouse for a delicious supper. After a short talk on Spekboom Tours, Julia introduced Wade Whitehead, CEO of FreeMe KZN Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre, who told us about FreeMe’s Blue Duiker Reintroduction Project in the Dargle forest. After supper, raptor specialist Tammy Caine gave an interesting presentation on forest raptors that occur in the area. In these talks we learnt that everything has a vital role to play in this unique ecosystem
The following day, after a trail round the beautiful Blesberg farm, the tour returned via a different route to Lemonwood Cottages. It was altogether a satisfying experience, with slackpacking adding another dimension to visits to the Midlands while contributing to the protection of this really special natural environment.
